kareina: (Default)
 Back in 2018 I did a field trip with my cousin Carola to as many soapstone quarries and outcrops in southern Sweden as we could do over the course of several days driving it was a fun trip, and I enjoyed it, and analysing the samples collected have kept me busy for years thereafter.

Alas, some of the stops didn't yield any soapstone samples--sometimes because too much plant cover hid the stone, one time because the quarry is now just a lake, the shores of which are NOT soapstone. Today, while looking in the Swedish national archaeological artefact database for everything made of soapstone, I stumbled on an entry of a forest service location--a long abandoned place on the Swedish-Norwegian border, about 9 km from the above mentioned quarry lake where there had been an active soapstone quarry in the 1800's. The sons of last person living there emigrated to America in 1909.

When using that web page to find soapstone artefacts (or, in this case, an unexpected quarry) I normally open GoogleMaps to the same location, and copy the decimal form of the latitude and longitude from there, as that is faster and easier than converting from the SWEREF 99 TM N,E coordinate system. (I am keeping the lat-long in a csv file, and importing them all into google earth to plot locations on a map without bothering with a GIS program.)

This time, when I looked at the place on the googlemap there was one of those tourist info symbols on it, which led me to a cool web page describing the destination, and showing photos of the faces one or more of the miners carved into the cliffs, presumably in the 1800's given the dates it was open, and the style of the art. Here is one of them:

a face in the cliff

If only I had known about this place when I did that trip--here it would have been easy to find a small loose scrap of soapstone to take home to analyse! 
kareina: (Default)
... but takes a certain level of energy. I have fallen into a work pattern of taking a break every 35 minutes or 1.5 hours. My work shift is 7 hours, and according to my logs I have been carving 4.5 to 5 hours a day, and doing 7 carving sessions.

Since I started carving the big bellows stone on Saturday I have been very careful to log my time, as I want to know how long it will take.

This is a very different project than originally planned for this summer job. I wanted to make cooking pots in different sizes and test them to see exactly how long water keeps boiling after the pot is removed from the fire, and how that number changes when the ratio between the mass of the pot and the mass of the water changes.

Then another blacksmith, Rod, from the UK arrived, with a goal to make a Viking style sword in our Viking style smithy. (Most folk making Viking style swords are using modern workshops, so their end result looks right, but will have differences measurable on the microscopic scale.)

Since the size of the bellows stone effects how large of a sweet spot (ideal temperature) one can obtain in a forge with hand pump bellows he wondered if I could make them a new, larger bellows stone? Yes, indeed, the block of soapstone the museum obtained for my work is plenty big enough for the suggested size, even after we had alredy removed two pot sized blocks.

He suggested that we use the Snaptun Stone as our inspiration, only ours would be bigger.

So Friday night after work we used power tools to rough cut the shape and then tried to split the thickness of the block because we wanted the stone to be about 2/3 of the thickness of the slab.

Soapstone, however, is not brittle (which is part of why we use it!!!), so it doesn't split easily. First we used the stone cuttig disk on the angle grinder to make a cut about 7 cm deep all the way around the block. Then we started hammering in lots of metal wedges. Eventually, instead of splitting the stone completly, the edge bit of stone that had been sliced with the grinder broke off, leaving the middle psrt untouched. Repeat for each edge, and look at the huge middle section which is still at full width. Darn. Get out the drill, drill holes in the part that sticks out. Pound in the wedges. Chunks break off, but the (now smaller) middle section remains stubbornly behind. By then we'd been working two hours (after a full day's work), and the new slope to the middle protrousion didn't look inviting to drill, so we called it good for the night and decided I could remove it with a chisel later.

Shower, yoga, sleep. Wake up to the news that the smithy had burned down in the night. Good thing we have already started a replacement bellows stone. (We don't know yet if the orginal stone surrived the collapse of that side of the hearth--the fire department hasn't had time to do their investigation of the site yet, so we can't yet go in to salvage the things that survived (the hammars and tools will need re-hardening, and new wooden hammers, but we can see from outside the police line tape that they are otherwise fine.)

So now I am focusing on making that new stone as quickly as I can using hand tools. As I chisel away that middle protrusion I am trying to get as big of chunks as I can so that we can have a station at the Viking Festival for kids to try to carve fishing line sinkers, or whatever else they want.

That part is hard work, so I start with that first, and then switch to rounding the edges and converting the angle cuts of my block to the graceful curves of the Snaptun Stone, becuse it is more fun.

My deadline is to have this ready by the day the rebuilt stone forge is built up to level it goes. However, we can't know yet when that will be, since we need the "all clear to begin the rebuild" from both the folk investigating the fire and the museum administration before we start. Not that it really matters. The stone cutting project will take how long it takes. I have seven (read five effective) hours a day, five days a week to give it right now With luck the timing will work out well.
kareina: (Default)
The Summer job at Lofotr Viking Museum that I am interested in applying for is the one for craftspeople The have a two-page application form, and ask for a CV. I have filled in the form, and wrote the below paragraphs for the section labelled "Write your application text here. Background, skills, etc:" This much text makes the application just exactly fill the two pages of their form. If anyone has any feedback for me on it, I would really appreciate it.

The application text:

I am excited to apply for the Viking Age Crafts position, with a speciality in Soapstone carving because ties in so well with my second PhD research (see CV) and my introduction to soapstone carving from the Nidaros Cathedral Restoration Project. I truly enjoy the soapstone carving, but, due to other commitments, I haven’t had the time available to complete my large cooking pot. Therefore, a summer job wherein I am able to devote my time to the craft of stone carving sounds absolutely perfect.

In addition to carving soapstone, I would like to undertake experimental archaeology and learn to cook in soapstone vessels. I have heard from Eva Stavsøien at Nidaros that a soapstone pot of the size I am carving has enough heat capacity to keep a pot of water boiling for fully 10 minutes after the pot has been removed from the fire, which sounds perfect for making porridge without burning it.

However, I am very curious: How dependent that boiling time after removal from the fire is on the size of the pot? A smaller pot would presumably cool faster than a large one, but it also contains less liquid. Does that mean that the smaller heat-sink can keep the smaller amount of water boiling for the same amount of time? How does the relationship between the thickness of the pot walls and the diameter of the pot (T-D ratio) effect the overall heat capacity of the pot (and thus how long the liquid will continue to boil)? Assuming that changing the T-D ratio changes how long the liquid continues to boil, are different pots better suited to making porridge from different grains (with different cooking times)? If so, can any inferences be made as to preferred local porridge grains based on differences in the T-D ratio of the pot? While I expect that the final question is beyond the scope of a single summer’s experimental archaeology, doing tests measuring the boiling times after removal from the fire for pots with different T-D ratios would be an interesting start towards that understanding.
kareina: steatite vessel (2nd PhD)
Last month I happened to look at the web page for the Lofotr Viking Museum, and while I was there I noticed that they have a "work with us" section, so I clicked on it. At the time it was still advertising the 2020 summer season, but they had a section mentioning that they sometimes hire interns, and please send an email if interested. As a PhD student in Archaeology with not so much practical experience on anything other than analytical lab work that sounded interesting, so I promptly sent them an email, outlining my PhD research and asking if they were hiring interns this year.

They replied promptly saying that they aren't able to hire any interns this year (no surprise there given 2020), but that they would be announcing the summer 2021 jobs soon and encouraging me to try applying for one of those instead. Today the announcements came out, and I am delighted to see that the one for Håndverkere (crafts workers) is specifically looking for soapstone carvers!

So now I have written back to her letting her know that I will apply soon, and did she prefer that I fill in the application form in English, Swedish, or Norwegian, and does she have a preference which language I do the CV in? I also asked if they want the crafts workers to focus on one craft over the summer, or do a variety, in other words, should I include photos on my CV of my nålbindning, Viking Age clothing, and wood working projects as well?

If anyone is inclined to offer feedback on my application packet let me know and I will share it once I have a good draft together. (Deadline to apply isn't till March, but I would like to apply before the year ends, anyway, if I can get a good packet together.)
kareina: (Default)
I recently finished a tiny soapstone pot for [personal profile] fjorlief's rag doll Nadina, and sent it over. Given how long the last letter I sent to the states took, I expected it to take ages to get there. Much to my delight, the package arrived today. She will be posting about it later, after she has breakfast, but I can't resist sharing the photo she sent:

a doll and her soapstone pot
kareina: steatite vessel (2nd PhD)
I have been enjoying watching [personal profile] fjorlief make her beautiful rag doll, Nandina, and all of the lovely accessories. But it wasn't till I saw her post about making a tiny basket that I wanted to play, and wondered how it would go to carve a tiny soapstone pot for Nandina.

So tonight, sometime after midnight, instead of going to bed, I opened the box of soapstone scraps from various quarries, looking for one that wasn't too big, but was still big enough. I finally selected a scrap that comes from Solem Quarry, which is a bit south of Trondheim, and was used in the 1800's for quarrying stone to restore Nidaros Cathedral.

That piece was just over 1.5 cm thick, ~2 cm wide and ~3.5 long. it had one already perfectly flat surface, from having been previously cut to obtain the chip that I have analysed for my PhD research. So I cut off one pointy end, and started using a flat file to remove the edges and wind up with something kinda like a cylinder. Then I used a round file to start putting groves on one end, so I could make feet, so that the pot can stand in the coals.

It went surprisingly fast to get the legs separated from one another, and then I used a half-round file to define the curve of the bottom of the pot. Finally I carved the inside curve of the pot, using a variety of round and oval tools that are designed to use with a rotary power tool for carving and engraving. However, given the scale of this project, I did NOT use them in a power tool, but just used them by hand. Then I gave it a quick rub with some coconut oil, and about 2 hours after starting I had this:

tiny pot


soapstone

with feet

Now I just need to post it to Oregon so that Nandina can cook over her campfire...
kareina: (mask)
I tend to be one of those people who keep using the same computer for at least 8 years. lots of issues related to changing computers slowly over the course of months behind the cut ) Again something that he will be able to solve when he gets home, but that won't be till tomorrow, at which point he may or may not have time/energy. However, his not being available gave me time to type up this, for your entertainment.

Since I am here I may as well include an update of the past few days, too. When last I posted it was Wednesday of last week, and I had no plans as of yet. How quickly our days fill up.

Thursday I did my workout in the morning, biked to the office to water my plant in the afternoon (this time my key opened the door no problem, unlike the time I tried a week or two before), went straight back home, curled up with a e-book and audio book in Norwegian for a few hours, helped David re-arrange stuff in the shed so that we can fix the back wall next, and enjoyed hanging out with him a bit afterwards.

Friday I helped out my friend Louise and her mom, both of whom needed to go grocery shopping, but neither of whom has a driver's licence. Normally her dad takes them, but he is out of town, so she asked me if I would. She also said we could use their car, so I biked over there, we drove out to the big grocery store, and each got our own cart and agreed to meet at the bench by the door when done. They warned me that they would take a while, so I wandered slowly through the store and picked up the few things I needed, and stopped to chat with my friend Siv, whom I ran into in the dairy section. Eventually I paid for my things and went and sat on the bench with my e-book and audio book for a little while till her mom joined me. I had just enough time to eat the croissant and pear I had bought specifically to eat while I waited before she arrived (she was convinced that she would be the last one to the bench, but she beat Louise by about a minute and a half).

After that I had dinner and then helped David with some yard work, did some things around the house, and got in a couple hours reading in prep for my interview. That night I enjoyed visiting with a friend on line, and it was really good to catch up and connect like that. Sleep is clearly optional.

Saturday during the day I was productive, with some uni work, some harvesting red currants, some cooking, a workout, etc. In the evening I got in three hours of soapstone carving, and decided that the outside is now done enough to start on the inside.

Sunday morning I baked a yummy carrot-red currant crumble (with an oat and almond topping). During the day we went to "Grundet", the island on the Luleå river where the local SCA now has its home (and storage of stuff). There were about 30 of us from Frostheim there, some doing archery, some (including me) sitting in the shade with sewing project or just talking or playing with the baby, some in the smithy making stuff, etc. We were there some hours, and then I came home and relaxed for about an hour before some of my friends from Phire came over. We did some music, some acryoga, ate some of that crumble, and played games (cards and Quirkle). After they went home I did my yoga, then got some cuddles from a friend who dropped by for a bit. He went home at 23:30, and I expected to go straight to sleep, but another friend was feeling down, so instead I spent a couple hours chatting with him (and doing duolingo lessons in between typing), and finally got to sleep at 00:55.

today (Monday)Much to my surprise I woke up full of energy at 05:15, so I got up, packed my computer and some food, and biked in to the office, arriving well before 07:00. I worked till 08:30, and then I biked to town to take my dance shoes to the shoe repair shop, which has just re-opened after their summer holidays. I got there just after 09:00, and showed him where I have worn through the outer sole of the shoe, and explained that I am heading to Norway at 05:00 on Thursday for another folk music/dance festival, and asked if it would be possible to have them fixed before then, or if I should keep them and bring them to him after the trip? Luckily, he said he can have them done by Wednesday afternoon, so I left them there and enjoyed a pretty ride back to the office, where I worked for another couple of hours, then went and took a nap in the massage chair in the next corridor while it ran the "recover" program, and then, when it stopped 20 minutes later (and woke me), I pressed the "refresh" button and sat through another 8 minutes of that massage before I was ready to return to the office for another two hours of work. Not a bad first day back after holidays!
kareina: steatite vessel (2nd PhD)
I have signed up for a short course next month, which has an on-line component, and the course has a forum discussion section, with an "introduce yourself and your research section".  I posted a short intro of myself, which said:

*************************************
I doing a second PhD, half-time, and long distance, in Archaeology this time. My research is a provanancing study of Viking Age Swedish Steatite (soapstone).
 
I am a life-long non-traditional student.  I loves school so much, that when graduated high school (in 1984 in Alaska) I enrolled in the local "college" (as they call it in the states) with the goal of "being a student forever", and started taking a random assortment of classes because they sounded fun, and not aimed at any particular degree. Six years later a friend of mine was trying to decide which graduate school offering him money he was going to accept.  This was my first introduction to the fact that it was possible to get paid to be a student (I was the first person in my family to get a university education), and my goal suddenly changed from being a student forever, to being paid to be a student. The only problem was how to choose only one "major" field of study so that  could get the bachelor's degree needed to go on to be a graduate student?  There are so many interesting subjects...
 
I wound up choosing geology as my major because I enjoyed rock-climbing and loved mountains and wanted to know more about both.  This path led me to Oregon for the Bachelor's degree, back to Alaska for my Master's, and to Tasmania for my PhD. Years later I settled in Luleå Sweden, where I first did a post-doc in geology, and then, when that funding ran out became the laboratory for a Laser-ablation ICP-MS lab here.  Since that was a half-time position, and I have also always been interested in archaeology, when I saw the ad for a "geoarchaeology" half-time PhD position in Durham I applied, suggesting that I could use my laser lab for doing the analyses.  I was delighted to find out that once one has that first PhD it is possible to enrol in another without having really taken undergraduate classes in the new subject, at least if there is some overlap in the skill sets needed. 
*************************************

Which got a reply that said:

"Your research sounds super interesting! May I ask what caused you to decide to study soapstone? Did you have any particular encounters with it during your rockclimbing expeditions? Or did you perhaps encounter it in a museum, or was it a particular use the type of stone was used for that fascinated you? When you mentioned Viking Age, my mind immediately connected the era and stones to runestones. Was soapstone used for rune inscriptions?"

Having taken the time to answer her there, I thought I may as well share here, too, as someone else might be interested in the answers:

*************************************


Thanks, I am enjoying the research so far.  As to how I finally settled on soapstone, it wasn't easy. When I first saw the ad for the half-time PhD position I sent an email explaining that I was interested in aarchaeology, had a degree in geology, and a half-time job managing a LA-ICP-MS lab. I mentioned that I had read some papers that used Raman to measure composition in garnets in Merovingian jewelery to determine where the stones came from, and thus say something about trade routes, and that I would enjoy doing a similar project with my lab. This led to a number of different emails being exchanged back and forth, during which the list of potential projects just kept growing. However, it isn't feasible to do multiple projects on lots of different materials (the list included garnet, glass beads, spindle whorls, and many more), so we needed to narrow it down to just one. Therefore we switched to a skype conversation, and two hours later finally settled on soapstone, for a number of reasons:

  • While garnets are very near and dear to my heart (there is SO MUCH information recorded in garnet about the changes in temperature and pressure at which the mineral was growing, and garnet analysis was a big component of my first PhD research), and they appear often in lots of pretty objects from a variety of cultures, usually said objects are so nice I wasn't certain we could convince a museum to let us do laser-ablation on them, since it does leave a mark (unlike the Raman used in the articles I had mentioned)
  • Another mineral that featured in my PhD research, and in my first post doc, is talc, which is the main component of soapstone, and I am nearly as fond of it as garnet
  • Soapstone in the Viking Age was used for every-day household objects, including cooking pots, spindle whorls, and more. Being less fancy than jewelery, the odds of being permitted to actually analyze it goes up. It is also so soft that it is possible to leave a scratch mark on it with a finger nail, which means that the very minor damage left by a laser wouldn't really be noticeable in addition to all of the other wear and tear the object has received over the years.
  • In the course of the conversations and background reading I was doing I found out that the Vikings used soapstone, but not ceramics, for their cooking, with the result that in some places they settled where there had been a tradition of ceramics, the pottery shards completelydisappear from the archaeological record, only to re-appear after the Viking occupation of the area. Furthermore, it was so important to their lifestyle, they took it with them to their settlements which have no available soapstone quarries (like Iceland--it simply isn't possible, geologically speaking, to find soapstone on that island, other than what the people brought with them, and they did).
  • Finding out that it was so common to cook with made me realize that in all of my years of historical re-enactment camping events I had never once seen anyone cooking with a soapstone pot, and I wondered why not? (Though I did once see a flat piece of soapstone being used as a bakestone for flatbread cooked over an open fire. yum!)
I don't happen to know of any examples of soapstone being used as runestones off the top of my head. However, I do know of an example here in northern Sweden of a soapstone cliff face which has rock art dating back to the the stone age, and continuing off an on over time, including Viking age drawings of ships, right up to modern graffiti. (To be fair I didn't know about that one till I stumbled upon the paper about it, after I started this project.) However, I do know of a runic inscription on a spindle-world that is in the collection of the Swedish Historical Museum.
*************************************
kareina: (Default)
Inspired by [personal profile] frualeydis's post about her challenge, I have finally made the time to post the below suggestion to the Golden Egg Web page:

I propose the following as a Golden Egg Challenge:

Make and cook with a soapstone pot and then use it for science.

I am somewhat late in getting around to posting this, I have been thinking of this on and off since January, and begun real steps towards this goal in May. Is it still allowed to be a Golden Egg challenge anyway?

I begun researching Viking Age cooking vessels in soapstone in January, as part of my 2nd PhD project, which seeks to determine the source quarries for various archaeological soapstone objects based on the composition of the objects.

The first thing I noticed when I started researching this topic was the contrast between the fact that most Viking Age families were cooking with soapstone, and most Viking Age reenactors I have met aren’t, and I thought it would be cool to give it a try.

Then I wondered if cooking with soapstone would cause any changes in the composition of the stone (either due to the repeated heating and cooling, or due to the food, or some combination thereof) that might complicate my goal to figure out where the stone was quarried? This also inspired me to try it: Make a pot, measure its composition, cook with it for a year or two, measure its composition again. Has it changed? If so, is there a pattern to the change?

Therefore I have started the first steps towards this goal:

* reading about Viking Age Soapstone Vessels (see below)
* reading about Viking Age food stuff
* searching the Swedish Historical Museum’s database for soapstone objects
* travel to the Nidaros Cathedral Restoration workshop to learn the basis of soapstone and obtain a piece to make a pot
* started carving (see profile photo)

It will take time (realistically months, given how little time I have available for the carving) to make the pot. Once it is done I need to learn to cook with it (the woman who taught me says that once one gets water to a boil in her pot one can take it off the fire and it will keep boiling for 10 minutes more).

What more do I need to do for the “Golden Egg” part of this project? Is this even an appropriate sort of project for this group?

Partial reading list for Soapstone artifacts and the composition thereof:

Allen, R.O., and Pennell, S.E., 1978, Rare Earth Element Distribution Patterns to Characterize Soapstone Artifacts, in Archaeological Chemistry—II, AMERICAN CHEMICAL SOCIETY, Advances in Chemistry 171, v. 171, p. 230–257, doi: 10.1021/ba-1978-0171.ch014.

Torsten DuRietz (1935) Peridotites, Serpentines, and Soapstones of Northern Sweden, with special reference to some occurences in Northern Jämtland, Geologiska Föreningen I Stockholm Förhandlingar, 57:2, 133-260, DOI: 10.1080/11035893509445975

Erwin, J.C., 2001, A prehistoric soapstone quarry in Fleur de Lys, Newfoundland: PhD Thesis, University of Calgary.

Forster 2005, The Soapstone trade in the North Atlantic: Preliminary research of Viking and Norse period soapstone imports in Iceland In: Current Issues in Nordic Archaeology: Proceedings of the 21st Conference of Nordic Archaeologist 6-9 September 2001, Akureyri Iceland Ed: Garðar Guðmundsson • 2005 Publisher: Society of Icelandic Archaeologists. ISBN: 9789979609445

Forster, A., Jones, R., 2017. From Homeland to Home; Using Soapstone to Map Migration and Settlement in the North Atlantic, In: Hansen, G., Storemyr, P. (Eds.), Soapstone in the North. Quarries, Products and People 7000 BC - AD 1700. University of Bergen, pp. 225-248.

Forster, A. K. and Turner, V. E. (Eds.). Kleber: Shetland's Oldest Industry. Shetland Soapstone Since Prehistory. Lerwick: Shetland Amenity Trust, 133 pages ISBN-10: 0954324692

Hansen et al 2017, Soapstone in the North. Quarries, Products and People 7000 BC - AD 1700. University of Bergen.

Hubbard, M.J., 2006, Soapstone vessels in the Ohio River Valley and determining their source of origin using visible/near-infrared reflectance spectrometry [PhD Thesis]: Kent State University.

Rogers, M., Allen, R., Nagle, C., and Fitzhugh, W., 1983, The Utilization of Rare Earth Element Concentrations for the Characterization of Soapstone Quarries: Archaeometry, v. 25, p. 186–195, doi: 10.1111/j.1475-4754.1983.tb00675.x.

Stavsøien 2012, Fra fast fjell til gryte: Å arbeide med kleberstein, - hva skjuler seg i prosessen? (From solid rock to cooking pot: Working with soapstone, - what is hiding in the process?). Bachelor's thesis, BACHELOROPPGAVE BYG819T
Prosjektnr. 13-2012 Eva Stavsøien.

Val G. Steele, Report on the analysis of residues from steatite and ceramic vessels from the site of Belmont, Shetland

Turnbaugh, W., Turnbaugh, S., and Keifer, T., 1984, Characterization of selected soapstone sources in southern New England (Chapter 12) - Prehistoric Quarries and Lithic Production, in Prehistoric Quarries and Lithic Production (New Directions in Archaeology), Cambridge: Cambridge University Press. doi:10.1017/CBO9780511753244.013, p. 129–138.

Edward W. Wells III, Sarah C. Sherwood, and Kandace D. Hollenbach. Soapstone Vessel Chronology and Function in the Southern Appalachians of Eastern Tennessee: The Apple Barn Site (40bt90) Assemblage. Southeastern Archaeology 33:153–167

Wikki, H.B., 1953. Composition and origin of soapstone: , Bulletin de la Commission Geologique de Finland. Geologinen Tutkimuslaitos, p. 57.

Food Additives and Contaminants Volume 19, Issue 2, 2002, Pages 134-143 Soapstone (steatite) cookware as a source of minerals(Article) Quintaes, K.D., Amaya-Farfan, J., Morgano, M.A., Mantovani, D.M.B.
kareina: (Default)
Now that Thorvald has returned to Avacal I suppose I should try to record some of the adventures we had while he was here…

He arrived on Thursday the 7th of June. I worked that morning getting training on the SEM (Scanning electron microscope), and then picked him up at the airport. We took it easy the first night, as he hadn’t gotten much sleep during the flight, and I had stayed up too late Wednesday evening trying to accomplish everything that I thought needed doing before he arrived. Friday morning he and I walked to the university, where I did an acroyoga session with Johan, and Thorvald tried a couple of the easiest poses. Then we walked home and enjoyed a relaxed evening. Saturday we drove out to Storforsen (beautiful, as always, and quite high water levels, since it was such a good snow year). Sunday he joined us for the folk dance session, and on Monday we hopped into the car (borrowed David’s blue car, since there were no rental cars available anywhere in Luleå on such short notice) and drove to Lofoten. Ten or eleven hours later we were at Rachel’s house in Kabelvåg. We sat up talking till nearly midnight, and got up on time to have breakfast with her before she went to work.

Tuesday’s adventure started with a visit to Aalan Gård, a goat farm and local cheese shop. I had enjoyed their cheese back in 2012, when I bought some at the gift shop of the Viking Museum, so this time I decided to go straight to the farm and buy from them directly. We arrived shortly after their 10:00 opening time, and were the first visitors of the day. We were greeted (in English), but the daughter of the house, who gave us a tour that included looking into the cheese making rooms, seeing the herb drying room, the herb garden, pointed out the goats about to head up the side of the mountain for the day’s grazing (they are taken out each morning by a person, but come home in the evening on their own), etc.

Our next stop of the day was at Lofotr, the Viking museum. We enjoyed wandering around the museum, the long house, looking at the depression in the ground where the original long house had been, walking down to the lake to look at the viking ship (not sailing that day). We also stopped by the archery range, where the ladies on duty (in viking costumes, of course) invited us to try shooting at the target. Thorvald, of course, said yes to that (he has always loved archery, and even has his pelican for encouraging combat archery in An Tir back in the early days of combat archery). He did quite ok shooting at the target, despite the fact that the bow and arrows they have out for visitors aren’t the best, and he hadn’t tried that particular combination before. Therefore the lady said “now hit the bottle”, so he turned a little, took aim at the empty plastic bottle hanging from a string near the target, released, and the arrow bounced off the bottle before falling to the ground. Satisfied that he had complied with the lady’s request, he loosed the final arrow at the normal target again.

We spent most of the day at Lofotr, and then drove home the long way, around the far side of the island (stopping for photos along the way, of course), and spent a lovely evening hanging out with Rachel and working on sewing projects.

Wednesday we climbed Kjeldbergting, a small mountain not from from Rachel’s house. This is a view from the top:

mountain view

Thursday we did the long drive back to Luleå, taking a detour to see if we could find the soapstone deposit at Lautakoski. Before the trip I had used the lantmateriet web page to look at the area in terrängskuggning ( literally “terrain shadows”, but actually LIDAR images), where I could see two depressions that could be quarrying—one on the east side of the river, one on the west. The western was the larger of the two, so we told the GPS to take us there. However, when we were 4.5 km from the destination we came to where we should turn off of the paved road and onto a dirt one, which had a locked gate. We considered walking in. However, it was nine hours since leaving Rachel’s that morning, and three more hours of driving before we could be home, so we opted to just get back in the car and head back to Luleå and get some sleep before Spelmansstämman (folk music festival) started on Friday.

The rest of our adventures will have to wait till another time, as it is already after 22:00, and I still need to do yoga and get some sleep, since I have to work tomorrow.

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