kareina: (stitched)
I don't recall if I mentioned the sprang workshop I took part in at Cudgel War--it was just to do a simple little pair of garters, but the "frame" we were using was clamping a couple of sticks to the table, and the table was long, so I wound up making a pair of belts, both of which were immediately put into service to hold up trousers. Both my poofy wool viking trousers, and the striped Thorsberg trousers I was wearing in the video I linked to yesterday need a draw string/belt to hold them up, and the tabby woven bands I had been using for them were never very comfortable. Sprang, on the other hand, being made by twisting warp threads around one another with no weft at all, is very elastic in nature, and is really comfortable when tied around a body part. Therefore I switched them into those trousers.

Then, when I got home from Hägnan I decided that I could also use some thinner drawstrings. The belts I made at Cudgel were done in a lovely wool, in two colours (maroon and white) in a diamond sort of pattern, done by using 4 threads of white, then 8 red, then 4 more white, and interlocking the threads by first exchanging the first two underside threads with one another and pushing what had been the second to the top and what had been the first to the bottom, then interlocking in a simple down-up-down-up repeating pattern till there are only two threads left (both from the top), at which point I pushed the first one I came to up and over the other and around to the back, leaving the hopped over on in front.

The new drawstrings, on the other hand, are made from a white cotton yarn, with only 8 strands total. When she taught the workshop she said that it was important to work from both ends--first do the interlocking from right to left on the left end of the table, then, when you push the second stick to the other end of the warp, while there do the interlocking there from right to left as well. Repeat, alternating sides. She said that if one does this than the resultant belt will lie flat, but if one works from one end only the belt will twist into a spiral. Curious about this, I, of course, had to try it. Since we need our table for other projects, rather than setting up the sprang warp on the table, I opted to clamp it to the upright logs that remain where the corner of the wall used to be between the office and the hallway when we took out the wall. This means that my threads, instead of running horizontally are now running vertically, which meant that it would actually be bothersome to switch back and forth which end I was working from. So I worked from the upper end only, and, sure enough, when the project was done and taken off the clamps, it did spiral, in a very pretty manner, and the drawstring is quite soft.

Then, just for good measure, I did another 8 strand drawstring clamped to a bench, so I could work from both ends, and, indeed, this one lies flat. The spiral one, however, I thought would make lovely ribbons to braid into my hair, so I have started yet another project, this time with the silk yarn I bought at Cudgel War--four strands of brown, and four of white, worked from only one end to court that lovely spiral (which would probably look dreadful in a wider project, but is an asset in one so narrow). Much to my surprise, even though I wound up with lozenges when working with 16 strands of the red and white for the first pair of belts, doing only 4 strands each of the brown and white working from one end only has resulted in a band that, while still under tension, is white on the right half, and brown on the other, with an interesting wavy border between. I think that when I take it down and it is free to spiral this will result in a pretty pattern to the twist.

However I am not ready to do that yet. Once I got the interlocking worked all the way to the center of the band I took more of the yarn and worked it through the warp the same way that the holding sticks would have been, had there still been room for them. Now I have that yarn pulled out to a clamp on the other wall, and I am interlinking it in the same way as the first (though it is only half as long). In theory, when it is done, I will have three spiral silk hair ribbons conjoined at one end that I will be able to braid into my hair. Of course, if I like how they came out, I will need to do another set of three, so I can have two braids.
kareina: (stitched)
I have been interested in trying to make tights from sprang ever since I read the article on Tight-Fitting Clothes in Antiquity – Experimental Reconstruction by Dagmar Drinkler, which appeared in issue #49 of the Archaeological Textiles Newsletter, but, since I haven't been able to get a copy of Collingwood's book on sprang I haven't really made the time to experiment with it. However, today I saw a link to a blog of someone who does sprang, and she has two blog posts of serious interest. One onher first pair of sprang pants, and one on her second pair. How wonderful today's world is, where I can learn from the attempts others have made on projects I want to do for myself.

And she even links to a pdf by Dagmar Drinkler which has way more photos than the above mentioned article. Will need to make time for this interest...
kareina: (Default)
I would like to start this post with a formal complaint about the weather. I did not move this close to the Arctic Circle because I thought rain in winter was a good idea. Yet, here it is, 4 December, and instead of the half meter (or so) accumulation of snow we should have on the ground here not only do we have no snow at all, but it has been raining off an on all day. The sidewalks are covered in puddles full of water, and there is no sign of any of the water freezing any time soon. I was ready for winter and real snow back in September, but other than a light dusting of snow a couple of weeks ago (which vanished after being rained on two days later), we haven't had any.

However, my complaints about the weather being too warm is the only thing wrong with my life at the moment, so I guess it is all good. I have a great relationship, a great job, good friends, and way, way too many fun things to do with my time.

This weekend we had considered heading to Piteå for the folk festival there, which would have been fun, but we didn't make it, and instead filled our time with other fun things. One of the diversions was attending the holiday market in Gamelstad this weekend,where, much to my delight, we found some juusto. I happily bought two packages--one for this week, and another for the freezer (because if I didn't freeze it I would eat both of them this week, and I rather like being slender, so therefore I will save the other). Sure I could make it myself, but it takes time and a rather lot of milk to do so, so if they are going to sell it to me at a reasonable price I will just say "thank you".

After we left the market we stopped by a second hand store, where we picked up yet another project (as if I didn't already too many of them I am in the middle of). We got two fur coats (at a reasonable price) and have already taken them apart, One of them is almost certainly mink. I don't know what the other is--its fur is shorter, but it doesn't feel like rabbit. They are both brown, though the mink is a bit darker. Last night I attached the collar from the mink coat to the black wool coat that [livejournal.com profile] lord_kjar made me, and tonight I started cutting the body of that coat into pieces which I will sew together to make myself a fur-lined hood. This will be good to have if winter ever arrives (though it looks like I will have plenty of time to finish the project the way the weather has been behaving). The second coat will be a hood for him (I get the warmer one, because I get cold easier). I plan to turn one of the sleeves into a fur-lined muff, and once I know which bits aren't needed for the hood I will do the cuffs of the black coat, too, since with the collar being fur the cuffs need to be as well.

So far I have cut out the two main rectangles for the hood and started sewing them together (a seam on the top if the head is necessary in order to have the fur pointing the same direction on both sides of the hood). Once that is attached I will mark the point where my neck meets my shoulder, and measure it to see how long the triangle insets need to be to sit just there. Then I can cut them out.

In addition I have taken apart the failed attempt at a sprang tights and have started that project over again. Hopefully this won't take too long, as I now have the project spread out across my living room. Granted, if I had spent the time I have been working on the coat entangling strings for the sprang project it would be closer to done now. So many projects, so little time! Ok, time to return to stitching...

sprang

Feb. 2nd, 2010 01:07 am
kareina: (stitched)
While some people might think that sprang is a verb (she sprang out of bed in the morning, fully alert and ready to face her day), today it has been a noun.

I have seen sprang mentioned in various books and articles on archaeological textiles over the years, and it always looked interesting, but I wasn't motivated to try it. In part because the diagrams showing the (often complex) patterns generally showed only enough of the pattern to show the repeat, and there wasn't a photo of an entire item made of sprang. Therefore I didn't really have any idea what it was good for, or why one would want to bother.

Two things recently have given me an idea of why one would want to bother. When I attended the Boar Hunt SCA event in the West Kingdom in December Sir Maythen had a cute little cap that she's had for many, many years. Several of us spent quite a bit of time looking closely at it, analyzing its structure and getting photos of it. While I'd never seen an example of sprang in person, it was very, very clear looking at it that the cap was made by sprang. The yarn was twisted one string to the next in regular patterns (and the pattern changed now and again, in a regular manner) and there was no warp or weft, just the interlocking side-by-side strings.

Then, after I returned home from my travels, I received the latest issue of the Archaeological Textiles Newsletter, wherein I read with interest the article on Tight-Fitting Clothes in Antiquity – Experimental Reconstruction by Dagmar Drinkler. This article focuses upon ancient Greek statues and depictions upon pottery of foreigners wearing tight fitted, patterned, articles of clothing. It points out that while we have no way of knowing how said items of clothing were produced, that the patterns can all be produced via the sprang technique, and that the technique lends itself very, very well to close fitted items (like hose) which one wants to be tight enough to stay on, but adjustable enough not to constrict. Photos were included of a variety of very pretty patterns whcih match the ancient depictions that the author made in sprang. She also included one photo of a person wearing an entire pair of tights in sprang in a two-colour diamond pattern.

Looking at the texture of the fabric thus produced in the photo, I suddenly found myself wanting some tights made of sprang. However, I don't happen to have (nor have I ever seen) a copy of Peter Collingwood's book "The Techniques of Sprang: Plaiting on Stretched Threads" (though I did once check out his Tablet-weaving book from the UTAS library, and thought it wonderful. Based on that one, I'd dearly love to own them both). In the absence of his book I turned to the Internet, and found [livejournal.com profile] phialastring's intro to sprang handout (see link in the first paragraph above). Her handout talks about making a bag, but I've never been one to follow directions. Besides, I had only a little bit of a yarn I didn't much care about to play with, so I wound up making a length of narrow band instead. I did, however, play with both forms of interlocking that she described in that handout, and now I truly understand how that hat was made, since it also used both patterns of interlocking.

[livejournal.com profile] duchessletitia, was it you who took the photos of the cap at Boar Hunt? Now that I understand how to make those kinds of patterns, I think I'd like to try my hand at such a cap, since I don't have a frame large enough to try tights. Granted, improvisation works wonders. I didn't have a frame available today, either, so instead I took one of the sticks that normally holds up the flag on my trike and set it through the legs of the heavy brass and stone globe that I've got on my desk and put the other stick through straps on my backpack, whcih was hanging over a chair, and then wound the yarn between the sticks. The globe and the chair-backpack were both heavy enough to provide all the tension I needed, and yet were adjustable as I worked my way towards the center of the project (without some form of adjustment the strings would get too tight to continue to plait together).

I *had* planned to do uni work tonight. But instead I spent three hours and 12 minutes working on this project and listening to the Italian Language lessons that [livejournal.com profile] blamebrampton gave me ages ago. This is the first time I've made time to listen to them since late November. (No wonder I've not made much progress in learning to speak Italian!) I guess that since I am working at a Uni in Italy that my language lessons do count as "uni work", in some sense of the word.

photos of my first attempt at sprang )

sprang

Feb. 2nd, 2010 01:07 am
kareina: (stitched)
While some people might think that sprang is a verb (she sprang out of bed in the morning, fully alert and ready to face her day), today it has been a noun.

I have seen sprang mentioned in various books and articles on archaeological textiles over the years, and it always looked interesting, but I wasn't motivated to try it. In part because the diagrams showing the (often complex) patterns generally showed only enough of the pattern to show the repeat, and there wasn't a photo of an entire item made of sprang. Therefore I didn't really have any idea what it was good for, or why one would want to bother.

Two things recently have given me an idea of why one would want to bother. When I attended the Boar Hunt SCA event in the West Kingdom in December Sir Maythen had a cute little cap that she's had for many, many years. Several of us spent quite a bit of time looking closely at it, analyzing its structure and getting photos of it. While I'd never seen an example of sprang in person, it was very, very clear looking at it that the cap was made by sprang. The yarn was twisted one string to the next in regular patterns (and the pattern changed now and again, in a regular manner) and there was no warp or weft, just the interlocking side-by-side strings.

Then, after I returned home from my travels, I received the latest issue of the Archaeological Textiles Newsletter, wherein I read with interest the article on Tight-Fitting Clothes in Antiquity – Experimental Reconstruction by Dagmar Drinkler. This article focuses upon ancient Greek statues and depictions upon pottery of foreigners wearing tight fitted, patterned, articles of clothing. It points out that while we have no way of knowing how said items of clothing were produced, that the patterns can all be produced via the sprang technique, and that the technique lends itself very, very well to close fitted items (like hose) which one wants to be tight enough to stay on, but adjustable enough not to constrict. Photos were included of a variety of very pretty patterns whcih match the ancient depictions that the author made in sprang. She also included one photo of a person wearing an entire pair of tights in sprang in a two-colour diamond pattern.

Looking at the texture of the fabric thus produced in the photo, I suddenly found myself wanting some tights made of sprang. However, I don't happen to have (nor have I ever seen) a copy of Peter Collingwood's book "The Techniques of Sprang: Plaiting on Stretched Threads" (though I did once check out his Tablet-weaving book from the UTAS library, and thought it wonderful. Based on that one, I'd dearly love to own them both). In the absence of his book I turned to the Internet, and found [livejournal.com profile] phialastring's intro to sprang handout (see link in the first paragraph above). Her handout talks about making a bag, but I've never been one to follow directions. Besides, I had only a little bit of a yarn I didn't much care about to play with, so I wound up making a length of narrow band instead. I did, however, play with both forms of interlocking that she described in that handout, and now I truly understand how that hat was made, since it also used both patterns of interlocking.

[livejournal.com profile] duchessletitia, was it you who took the photos of the cap at Boar Hunt? Now that I understand how to make those kinds of patterns, I think I'd like to try my hand at such a cap, since I don't have a frame large enough to try tights. Granted, improvisation works wonders. I didn't have a frame available today, either, so instead I took one of the sticks that normally holds up the flag on my trike and set it through the legs of the heavy brass and stone globe that I've got on my desk and put the other stick through straps on my backpack, whcih was hanging over a chair, and then wound the yarn between the sticks. The globe and the chair-backpack were both heavy enough to provide all the tension I needed, and yet were adjustable as I worked my way towards the center of the project (without some form of adjustment the strings would get too tight to continue to plait together).

I *had* planned to do uni work tonight. But instead I spent three hours and 12 minutes working on this project and listening to the Italian Language lessons that [livejournal.com profile] blamebrampton gave me ages ago. This is the first time I've made time to listen to them since late November. (No wonder I've not made much progress in learning to speak Italian!) I guess that since I am working at a Uni in Italy that my language lessons do count as "uni work", in some sense of the word.

photos of my first attempt at sprang )

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